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China 05/11/2024 Xinjiang chicken with potatoes gains worldwide fame

Xinjiang chicken with potatoes gains worldwide fame

Tashkent, Uzbekistan (UzDaily.com) —  "Chunks of chicken, red and green peppers, white onions, green celery, yellow potatoes—stacked high on a large plate, enticing and delicious," writes Xinjiang author Liu Liangcheng in describing this beloved dish.

Liu, born in Shawan city of Tacheng prefecture (Xinjiang), recalls how the dish came to be. He recalls working as an administrator at a rural machine station near Shawan, where tractor drivers often invited him to share a meal of chicken with potatoes. These drivers, who traveled across northern and southern Tianshan, claimed it was the best dish they had tasted. "Why? Maybe because of the large plate—it’s a hearty meal," he muses.

Originating in Shawan, the dish is often called "Shawan chicken with potatoes." In the 1980s, as Xinjiang’s freight transport sector expanded, the dish gained popularity through truck drivers who shared it at roadside cafes, quickly making it a Xinjiang specialty.

"The migration of people led to a unique mix of ingredients: chicken, peppers, potatoes—a favorite among the Gansu people—and broad noodles from Shaanxi," says a segment in the second season of the Chinese culinary documentary *Taste on the Tip of the Tongue*.

Chef Li Shilin, who has been preparing the dish for over 37 years, knows its many variations yet remains loyal to his own style. "For more than 30 years, my dish’s taste hasn’t changed. I always stick to a spicy, aromatic style," he says.

The recipe calls for cutting a whole chicken into pieces, first stir-frying, then stewing until tender. Once the meat softens, potatoes are added to continue stewing, with green and red peppers sautéed at the end. The result is a colorful, rich dish with tender chicken, soft potatoes, and a flavor that immediately captivates.

Wide "belt noodles" often accompany the dish. This locally produced, finger-wide noodle has a dense texture, absorbing the broth from the stew and adding a unique taste to each serving.

As Xinjiang chicken with potatoes spreads to various regions, local chefs adapt the recipe to suit their tastes and ingredients. In Henan, for instance, it is made with hui mian noodles. For those who avoid spice, the dish can be seasoned with five-spice powder instead. Sichuan-style versions include bean sauce and ample pepper, while Shanxi’s take incorporates heluo noodles for a regional twist.

The dish’s versatility allows it to adapt seamlessly, embracing local flavors and characteristics wherever it goes. Xinjiang chicken with potatoes has become a classic offering in Xinjiang restaurants worldwide.

Wang Chunyan, a Xinjiang chef in Kyrgyzstan, notes that local chefs prepare it with milder spices, less pepper, and salt, yet maintain the same delicious taste. Wang says the dish is popular not only among overseas Chinese but also among locals, representing the richness of Chinese culinary culture.

Li, the owner of a Xinjiang restaurant in Japan, observed that Japanese diners prefer milder dishes, so her version of chicken with potatoes uses minimal spice, with ingredients chopped smaller and cooked slightly longer, making it more appealing to Japanese tastes.

Through its integration into various regional cuisines worldwide, Xinjiang chicken with potatoes has gained new life, adapting with diverse ingredients and flavors.

By Tao Shuanke

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